Aromas of rose petals, raspberries, cherries and licorice introduce the 2018 Morgon Grands Cras, another superb wine from Burgaud that's medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with a fleshy core, ripe acids and a long finish. If anything, this is even more charming than Les Charmes this year. They make a formidable-and keenly-priced-duo that readers will enjoy comparing.

Properly tannic and structured for a wine from Morgon, this also has generous fruit and good acidity. Black fruits lace through the texture, balancing the dry core with concentrated fruitiness. The wine can age. Drink from 2021.