The 2013 Langhe Freisa Kyè is remarkably polished and, dare I say, elegant, in this vintage. The bombastic style of some years past has been supplanted by a much more silky, perfumed expression of Freisa. Bright, nuanced and finely sculpted, the Kyè offers extraordinary finesse. Lavender, rose petal, sweet red cherry and mint are laced into the exquisite finish. What a gorgeous wine this is.

G.D. Vajra is one of Piedmont’s top producers. Their name on a label is a guarantee of quality. Freisa, on the other hand, is not so consistent. It is a close relative of Nebbiolo and, like that grape, it has a prominent tannic structure. A century ago it was cultivated for use in the blend of red Vermouth where its astringency added balance. Currently, some producers leave a touch or residual sugar or make it fizzy in an attempt to balance the tannins. Not surprisingly, Vajra makes a gorgeous example by, as he explains it, planting it in the right place and leaving it on the vine, even after the later-ripening Nebbiolo, to allow the tannins in the seeds, which are particularly bitter, to ripen. Vajra’s 2013, redolent of strawberries, is a large-framed mineraly-infused wine with amazingly elegant tannins. Fresh and bright, its power cries for beef.

I have a thing for the Freisa grape and am very excited to be in front of this sample. The 2016 Langhe Freisa Kyè is named after a colloquial phasing of the question "who is it?" (or "chi è?" in Italian), underlining some of the mystery and allure surrounding this native grape. Freisa is a local favorite, but it is relatively unknown outside of Piedmont. This expression from the fine team at G.D. Vajra opens to a nicely saturated color with dark ruby or garnet highlights. The bouquet offers black cherry, dark fruit and accents of spice or white pepper. Primary fruit is the protagonist and so is that pretty freshness. Fruit comes from vineyards planted closest to the winery at the lower part of Bricco delle Viole. The wine is fermented in stainless steel (to lock in those fresh berry aromas) and is aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 26 months. A mere 6,000 bottles were released in May 2020.

Rose, strawberry and cherry flavors mark this juicy red. Exhibits some weight midpalate, and shows fine balance, winding down with a light coating of dusty tannins. Drink now. 500 cases made.