The 2017 Morgon Cote du Py is also smoking good, with a similar black and blue-fruited style in its ripe, roasted herbs, wood smoke, licorice, and meaty aromas and flavors. These carry over to the palate where the wine is medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and layered, with some serious oomph and richness that's balanced nicely by the wine's purity and elegance. I like it today, yet it has good acidity and ample tannins, and is going to keep for over a decade.

Aromas of spring flowers, plums, cassis, orange rind and wood smoke introduce the 2017 Morgon Côte du Py, an ample, full-bodied wine with juicy acids, fine tannins and excellent concentration, its largely concealed structural chassis only asserting itself on the long, tangy finish. The most incipiently complex member of Burgaud's Grands Cras, Charmes and Côte du Py trio, it will reward a few years of patience.