The 2017 Etna Bianco is a delicately perfumed and veiled expression of Carricante with soft mineral notes, white flower and easy peach or nectarine aromas. However, the true protagonist here are those carefully measured volcanic tones of ash and smoke. The bouquet on this vintage is slightly more neutral, but it will flesh out with a year or more of bottle age. Serve it with a chicken-and-herb couscous. Some 40,000 bottles were made.

Subtle aromas of citrus blossom and Bartlett pear waft out of the glass. The vibrant, linear palate offers mature yellow apple, sandalwood and bitter almond notes alongside bright acidity.

Pale straw. Open knit, very clean pear, peach and nectarine aromas, with strong floral undertones. Easygoing and subtle, with flavors of pear, apple, mint and minerals, and a lightly tropical quality. Nicely persistent on the juicy finish.