Meeting the optimist expirations I established a year ago, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre offers up aromas of lemon oil, freshly baked bread, crisp green apple, white flowers, wet stones and oyster jus. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's tensile and dynamic, with tangy acids, fine depth at the core and a long, sapid finish.

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is austere and recalcitrant on the nose, missing the volume and presence of the Montmains. The palate is balanced but relatively simple compared to William Fevre's other Premier Crus, just missing the same delineation and steeliness on the finish.