Invariably a highlight of the portfolio, Boillot's 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets derives from a low-yielding 60-are parcel of 55-year-old vines. Unfurling in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, plums, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its concentrated core of vibrant fruit underlined by succulent acids and framed by chalky tannins. This is a brilliant wine that's worth a special effort to seek out.