Aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with hints of orange rind, sweet spices and forest floor introduce Bouley's 2019 Volnay Village, a medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless wine that's lively and penetrating, concluding with a long, saline finish. As I've written before, this cuvée blends the rich, clay soils of lieux-dits Poisots, Famines and Cros Martin with the thinner, whiter soils of Ez Blanches above the Clos de Chênes; but in 2019, the wine's tone is set by Ez Blanches, even if it only amounts to one-third of the blend. Drink: 2025-2045

The 2019 Volnay Village has wonderful precision on the nose with red berry fruit and light undergrowth scents. The palate is clean and precise, quite Pommard like in terms of structure, fanning out nicely and with confidence on the finish. Very fine. Drink: 2024-2038.