Stylish, with white peach, golden raisin, jasmine and date aromas and flavors lined up together. with an nearly honeyed edge on a rich yet focused finish that lets all the elements take an encore together. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barocca and Tinta Roriz. Drink now. 100 cases imported.

Ripe, sweet and with a toffee and caramel character, this is a smooth, generous Port. Its intensity comes from the concentration of fruit and the 40 years of wood aging that match it. This is a full, mellifluous wine, rich and ready to drink.

The 1980 Colheita Tawny Port is a roughly equal blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca coming in with 132 grams of residual sugar. This release was bottled in 2020 with a bar-top cork. Here in this issue's lineup, you find more serious signs of complexity, a bit more caramel and the first hints of molasses-but only hints. This is actually a sugary Colheita at the outset, with a sweet and sexy finish. That cuts the impression of complexity quite a bit, even after several days open. On the other hand, it is astonishingly fresh for its age. The fruit does feel somewhat concentrated on the finish, but the youthful demeanor and gentle feel make this seem much younger than its 40 Year status would suggest. It's pretty delicious, but it is not necessarily as big a step up on the 2000-if at all-as the dramatic increase in age (and price) would suggest. The power is modest and the concentration is on the average side for its age, but it does deliver that extra bit of complexity. It is still pretty wonderful, but I'd argue that the 2000 is a much better 20 Year than this is a 40 Year.