The 2019 Clos Habert is almost like a Riesling in its purity, offering a scintillating fragrance of sweet apple, citrus and floral notes. There's a tension and power that runs through this light and floaty wine, propelling it forward with excellent sinew. It's an off-dry style (12g/L), and the lick of sweetness adds a certain tenderness at the start of the proceedings, although the finish seems dry and clean.

From a soil composed of clay and coarse flint elements covering the subsoil made up of tuff, the 2019 Montlouis sur Loire Clos Habert opens with a very fine and delicate bouquet of finely concentrated yellow-fleshed fruit aromas along with herbal and flinty notes. Round and intense, with perfectly ripe fruit, fine tannins and delicate acidity, this is a sustainably intense and salty Chenin that is far too young to be served today but will age for some decades.