The nose opens with a startling play between white truffles, bark and tea leaves and then crushed violets, lavender, blueberry peel, lemon rind and sour cherries. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, acidity as sharp as a razor and a long, ethereally mineral finish. The length but sheer clarity and accuracy in the delivery is remarkable. Perhaps hard to believe that this better than the 2013, but it is. Drink in 2022.

The 2014 Barolo Conteisa is an impressive wine that defies the odds of the vintage. Although the Cerequio vineyard did not suffer hail in 2014 (it did in 2016), grape production was reduced by half anyway. The remaining grapes delivered their best with intense flavors and crisp contours. Gaia Gaja tells me that the clusters harvested were perfect in appearance. This is a perfumed wine that offers defined aromas of wild cherry that rise to the top with intensity. The wine's tonality is dark and thick, and the tannins are full and structured.

Aromas of underbrush, dark berry, new leather and a whiff of camphor waft out of the glass. The tense chiseled palate evokes Marasca cherry, raspberry, star anise and a hint of cinnamon alongside polished fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2022-2032.

Though young and still a bit rough around the edges, this is harmonious, featuring cherry, berry, herb and tar aromas and flavors. The finish is long and vibrant, with earth and mineral elements. Best from 2021 through 2035.