It’s the fruit tea and hibiscus that really lifts this, not to mention the roasted herbs that lurk beneath the surface. But there’s no shortage of dried fruit either, whether it be dried cherries, dried plums or Christmas cake. It’s a real mouth-coater, showing sheer elegance in a bottle, encapsulated in the tannins that weave an ornate tapestry, hung between every corner of the palate. Full-bodied and very, very long. Best ever?

A supple, ripe style, boasting rose, plum, cherry, licorice and tea flavors, with a hint of mint. The tannins are soft and wide. Lingering finish. Best from 2021 through 2038.

This wine draws its fruit from a half hectare of vines that have often suffered in the hot years, and it will be discontinued as of the 2018 vintage. The Scavino family was not able to renew their lease here. There is a lovely elegance to this 2015 Barolo Cannubi, due largely to the high elevation of this parcel, where there is more dryness in the topsoil and more erosion, resulting in less plant vigor. It is made from smaller grape clusters. There is more concentration to this Barolo as well, and the tannins are never too powerful. But the low yields in the past and the general challenge to growing here make for more difficulty than it is worth, so I suppose this 2015 vintage could be considered something of a collector's item as a result.

Dark-skinned berry, thyme, ground clove and blue flower aromas form the nose. Focused and austere, the palate shows red cherry, orange zest, sage and star anise before a coffee bean close. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide the framework. Drink 2021–2030.