Blended on the spot from several different barrels, the 2018 Gigondas looks very promising. Asphalt, black cherries and tapenade feature on the nose, while the palate is almost painfully intense, with ample weight, great richness and a long, velvety finish.

Immediately very expressive, with a touch of elderberry among the bright damson, lifted by subtle sandalwood spice. Only medium-bodied on the palate, bright, brisk and lively, with precise acidity and salinity through the palate. Beautifully fresh and drinkable with a medium-length finish. Drinking Window 2019 - 2030

Moving to the wines from bottle, the base Gigondas from this estate is a perennial winner and readers can safely buy bottles of this in just about every vintage. Giving up a Provençal bouquet of red and black currants, peppery herbs, leather, and loamy soil, the 2018 is medium to full-bodied, has a forward, sexy style, no hard edges, and a great finish. It’s terrific today yet still has enough tannins to evolve for 10-15 years if you’re so inclined.

This is a restrained, slightly old school style, with hints of garrigue and sage out front and a core of lightly dried red cherry and dark plum fruit picking up light brick dust and incense accents. Long, mineral-edged finish leaves a nice echo. Best from 2021 through 2031. 4,400 cases made, 930 cases imported.