Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans 2018
Historically classified as Têtes de Cuvée de Volnay, Champans is the archetype of the great Volnay 1er cru: finesse, fullness and length in the mouth with an additional generosity and power all its own. Depending on the vintage, it deserves 5 to 10 years of aging to fully reveal itself, but it is generally more easily approached young than Taillepieds or Clos des Ducs.
91-95 points Jasper Morris for Inside Burgundy: "Magical depth of colour with a high-class dense fruit, and again a certain amount of oak. A little bit more muscle here with a pleasing and concentrated ripe dark fruit, but no hint at all of over-ripeness. Lovely fresh tingle at the finish."
The 2018 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an outgoing bouquet similar to the Taillepieds albeit one with more intellectual weight and gravitas behind it. Black cherries blueberry and light cassis aromas reveal crushed stone and undergrowth notes all delivered with intensity and superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firmer stockier tannins than the Taillepieds darker fruit and grainier texture toward the persistent finish. I see this has having real long-term potential. Excellent.
Like the Taillpieds, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is another of the more muscular, introverted wines in the cellar, exhibiting aromas of raspberries, rose petals, orange rind and dark chocolate, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and youthfully chewy palate that's amply endowed with ripe tannin and juicy acids. This is a fine Champans in the making, but as is almost invariably the case, it will demand some patience.
(from a huge 3.98 ha parcel). This too is beautifully elegant with its ripe and pure aromas of essence of red cherry liqueur, violet and rose petal scents. The equally refined if a bit less mineral-inflected flavors possess excellent verve on the long and slightly less structured finish that also evidences a touch of warmth. This needs to develop more depth but the underlying material appears to be present for that to occur. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding*