Lemon pie, apple, vanilla, nutmeg and clove flavors are enmeshed in the creamy texture of this vibrant and harmonious white, with an underlying stony element. Fine length. Drink now through 2028.

The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé bursts with aromas of pear, hazelnuts, white flowers, toasted almonds and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with tangy acids and a nicely concentrated finish, it concludes with a gently oak-inflected finish. Louis Jadot acquired the Domaine J. A. Ferret, one of the historic reference points for the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé, in 2008. Madame Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy's great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines that were harvested late and matured on the lees in oak barrels. Many of the wines produced under her tenure—and that of her daughter—are still drinking well today. Today, the style has changed; but the wines of Domaine Ferret are equally worthy of attention. Winemaker Audrey Braccini is producing fresher, brighter, earlier-harvested interpretations of Pouilly-Fuissé, and they're beautifully balanced, intense and engaging, clearly differentiated by site. The presence of new oak remains decidedly minimal at this address, though the wines see longer élevage on the lees. Braccini excels in warm vintages—witness her compelling 2015s—and so she has in 2019. Concentrated but incisive, everything reviewed here comes recommended, and as is so often the case, I found myself reflecting that this estate is one of the finest and most consistent addresses in the Mâconnais.