Mesmerizing aromas of violet, rose, perfumed berry and dried aromatic herb mingle together with a whiff of forest floor in this compelling wine. Full-bodied, elegant and delicious, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, cranberry, licorice and tobacco framed in youthfully assertive but refined tannins. It closes on a tangy mineral note.

The 2017 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia sources its fruit from old vines planted in Serralunga d'Alba. This site is known for power and structure, although this hot-vintage expression treads with surprisingly light and delicate footprints. Instead of overt ripeness (like the kind we saw in the two Brovia wines from Castiglione Falletto), the Brea is salty and mineral driven. It shows subdued primary fruit framed by iron ore, rusty nail and dusty terracotta.

A super-classic Barolo from Serralunga with the reserved character of Brea and its refined tannins. Bright yet restrained pomegranate aromas and flavours are joined by smoky minerality. It's not full bodied - instead it's tight and elegant with extracted yet polished tannins and good length. A clean, precise wine, it suffers slightly from a dry finish at present.

The 2017 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia is an exotic, intriguing wine. Sage, mint, black cherry, gravel, licorice, rose petal and smoke infuse the Ca' Mia with a good deal of Serralunga wildness. There is plenty of tannin, so readers will have to be patient. Even so, the 2017 comes across as a bit light in body and overall depth relative to the norm.

Aromas of tar, ripe berries and dried flowers. Full-bodied with layers of ripe tannins that are lightly chewy and pretty. Soft finish