Though taut and reticent in its aromas and flavors, this red builds on the palate to a long finish. Black cherry and sandalwood notes are the main themes, while toasty oak and a graphite element linger on the aftertaste. This feels like a thoroughbred ready to run. Best from 2023 through 2035.

The 2019 Beaune Les Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 1er Cru has by far the best aromatics of Bouchard's somewhat awkward Beaune Premier Crus, delivering bright red berry fruit, crushed stone and final delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, and quite peppery on the entry, but shows more freshness and terroir expression compared to Les Tuerons or the Clos de la Mousse. Excellent.

The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus is showing beautifully, bursting from the glass with scents of raspberries, warm spices, plums and incense. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit and supple, melting tannins, it's immensely charming and gourmand. I can't remember an Enfant Jesus that tasted so good, so young.